Home Page home Picture Page Site Map/Contents Reservation/Pay Cancellation/Pay Links Par Tout of little note Top Page 3

Home Page home




Area Info.

ACA Instruction

Contact us

About the Creek:  
   Creek Maps

Trip Details

Livery Detail $$$

What to bring

Reality Check

  MED Forms  
WW Outfit

Weather Stuff



Refunds &

Area Info.
    Place Stay
    Place eat
    Thing to do
    Creek GPS



Canoe Outfitting - Gluing it up Page 3*

  • At this point we have an empty boat with the following outlines marked on the bottom of the boat for gluing:
        a. Thigh strap anchor D rings (2 or 4)
        b. Air Bag anchor D rings (2)
        c. Saddle
        d. knee Pads (ankle blocks and foot pads are fitted later)
        e. We have the bow and stern clearly marked,
    and in our hearts we have inscribed, I promise not to use my new outfitting for 24 relatively dry hours after the last glue up, even though it may cause me extreme anxiety.
  • We need to have on hand :
    80 or 100 grit sandpaper (those 3m sanding blocks work great)
    acetone or alcohol,
    putty knife (or similar to press the glued d rings down 
    sheets of paper/plastic to set glue cans on,
    pencils with points, magic marker with point,
    hair dryer or heat gun,
    vacuum cleaner,
    razor knife to re-sharpen the point on the pencil because you didn't bring more than one like I suggested,
    throw away paint brushes ,
    plastic spreaders like the ones you use to spread body putty or something similar to spread glue.
    Weld wood contact cement , the flammable stuff, (or more expensive substitute like sta bond or hydro grip),
    Vina Bond, Have twice as much as you need.
    Rags to clean up spills.
    a nail or punch to poke a hole in the top of the vina bond

    NOTE that foam is glued to royalex with weldwood or similar, d rings are glued with vina bond or similar. For R lite and R 84 boats get the glue the Mfg. suggests probably sta bond or 3m monkey glue which has a # designation that I don't remember.
  • Preparation for gluing.
    a. BOAT Bottom- lightly sand 80 to 100 grit (one direction, then cross, then diagonal) inside the outlined areas and just a tiny over the lines; vacuum, wipe down with alcohol. (most mfg. now call for alcohol as a degreaser, acetone, mek and other solvents work but they are more risky - melt your hull, lungs liver etc. I use acetone)

    b. D RINGS - lightly sand the bottom, try not to sand the stitches too much; just Lightly scratch the glossy surface, wipe down with alcohol.

    c. FOAM if its clean you don't need to prep. If you're using stuff that's been kicking around the shop for a couple of years, clean it first (gentle sanding with that metal sandpaper works great) then rub it down with alcohol. Make sure the gluing surface is as flat (smooth) as possible.
    a. FIRST with the boat empty, glue in the thigh strap anchors. Next the air bag D Rings. I do these as two separate steps. It takes a little longer but keeps screw-ups to a minimum.
    1. Prep as above - D ring pads and boat bottom. If you loose the pencil lines while prepping, re-draw them before you use any glue. There are no second chances with contact cements, so you have to be sure exactly where to place the glued pieces.
    2. (the object is to get a thin coat of glue uniformly spread on the glue surfaces.)
    3. From the vinabond tube lay a glue line around the outside edge of the D Rings then zig zag  across the center. Quickly spread those lines evenly over the entire surface with a plastic spreader. Do the same on the boat bottom & Go a little outside the lines where you sanded. If the glue is not right, not fairly smooth, not fully covering the area, let it dry and repeat the process
    4. Set aside and let the glue dry completely. After it is completely dry. (completely dry is important)
    5. Take one D Ring and the hair dryer; holding the D ring close to the spot where you're going to glue it ( this is where you make sure the "Right Top" and 4 register marks match the glue spot) heat both surfaces at the same time. When warm, carefully press together. I start at one end and sort of roll it into place making sure that it goes down flat, matches the register marks, without air bubbles entrapped ; Immediately take the putty knife and press the pad flat to the boat from the center out. Press hard and cover every sq. in of pad, one way, then across, then diagonal.

    NOTE: If the vina bond is not completely dry, and wet glue gets trapped under the d ring, it will quite simply eat a hole in your boat. Your boat will not be covered by warranty. With this in mind, on cool and high humidity days it may be necessary (desirable) to dry the glues with a hair dryer as opposed to just setting them aside and waiting for them to dry.

    6. Next do the other D Ring(s) and and air bag D rings using the same sequences and procedures. There's no hurry. take your time and do it right
  • b. GLUE IN THE SADDLE (make sure the foot pegs are installed and everything but hand shaping is complete and installed on the saddle before gluing it to the boat. A very wide saddle may need to be contoured on the bottom, to the hull shape, before gluing )  

    A long note on foot pegs; then back to gluing. Foot pegs are important. They take a lot of stress and they need to be installed in a position that accommodates the way your feet rest in the boat as well as your paddling style. For example. Some boaters place their toes on the bottom of the boat, their foot is perpendicular to the bottom of the boat and their foot pads (balls of their feet) engage the foot pegs. These paddlers place the foot pegs about 2"-3" up from the bottom of the saddle. Other paddlers lay the top of their arch on the canoe bottom, slide their foot under the foot peg and engage it with their arch or heel. These paddlers need about 3" or 4" from the bottom of the saddle. Since foot pegs need to be installed with long attachments all the way through the saddle, installing or adjusting them after gluing is really difficult. Last thing, foot pegs need to be installed on (through) a  base (kydex plastic works great - like Plexiglas but less brittle) that acts as a washer between the foot peg rails and the foam saddle. This base can run the whole length of the rail, or can be an actual washer   (about 2" in dia.)at each point of attachment. If your not sure about height, error on the side of too high. It's pretty easy to adjust the pegs lower with foam; they will need to be reinstalled if raised. Another lastly, if you are super tall you may need to add length to the saddle to accommodate a farther back foot peg than normal. 6'4" to 6'5" guys can usually fit into a standard saddle with standard foot pegs.
    MRfootpegs1.jpg (25357 bytes)                     Sfootpegs2.jpg (16980 bytes)  

    Back to gluing in the saddle with foot pegs installed
                 1. Prep as above (sand, vacuum, solvent), stir the weldwood glue like paint. Paint the bottom of the saddle and it's footprint on the boat evenly with glue and let it dry.
                    2. After it dries repaint the saddle with one or more coats until it dries uniformly shiny over the whole surface. Pay particular attention that the outside edge has a good layer of glue. The glue should be as evenly spread as possible.
                    3. Place the saddle on its footprint very carefully. Start at the back. Line up the marks and press in place from back to front. Pay particular attention to alignment back to front as it goes down. Weight it down after full contact by pushing, kneeling, standing etc. on it to get a good seal.
  •          c. GLUE IN THE KNEE PADS (kneel in the saddle, put the kneepads in place again, dry. check their alignment etc. re mark, or re cut if necessary. Prep and glue just like the saddle. Note that things are starting to get tight, the knee pads need to fit in a tight, curved, angled space between the thigh strap d ring, saddle, chine  etc. Practice putting (rolling) them in dry and matching up the registration marks before you glue them up. There is no sliding and no OOPS's with contact cement.
  •          d. Mark and install the 1/2 " thick foot pads most WW open canoes don't have these but they are really nice,  and a MUST for barefoot, C1ers and Teva paddlers.

    MRfootpegs1.jpg (25357 bytes)
  •           e. ANKLE BLOCKS, kneel in the saddle again, have your paddling shoes on. Get comfortable. Adjust the toe blocks the way you like. Next, slide a piece of foam about 2"high x2 1/2"wide x5" long under your shin about 6 " above your arch. The idea here is that the ankle block should take some of the weight of your leg off of your foot so you don't have to use muscle to hold your foot in position . If they are too high they will be uncomfortable. Too low they don't do any good. Trial and error is the only way to get them just right and in just the right position. Also keep in mind that any change in footwear, foot pad or knee pad thickness, [ie. wet suit] will also change the way the ankle blocks meet your shin.
  • Your Glue up is pretty much complete except for cleaning up the spills and squeeze outs. I use acetone and a course pad or rag - not overly wet - acetone is strong stuff and softens vinyl. see comments elsewhere.

    Next- FINISHING TOUCHES | BACK to measure & mark |BACK to outfitting p1
    top of this page

Picture Page Site Map/Contents Reservation/Pay Cancellation/Pay Links Par Tout of little note Top Page 3

Home Page   Canoe   Kayak    Area Information   Reservation   [top of this page]  

Copyright � 1997 [antietamcreek.com]. All rights reserved.
Revised: August 22, 2014.